Special Edition: London Chronograph by Speake-Marin

This spring, Speake-Marin unveils a special edition dedicated to the early years of the British watchmaker peter Speake-Marin. The London Chronograph is a special edition and it will only be available in the Fine Watch Room at Harrods, in London during this summer.
After qualifying as a horologist a London’s Hackney College and deepening his knowledge of watch making in Switzerland, Peter Speake-Marin met Georges Somlo in 1990. Speake-Marin stayed in Somlo’s Piccadilly arcade for six years, restoring al manor of early pocket and wrist watches. The London Chronograph is a tribute not only to this years but also to the watches Speake-Marin learned to love back then.



The chronograph is powered by a Valjoux 92 made during the 1950’s and 60’s. As with many mechanical calibres the quartz revolution in the late 60’s cut short the life of this and many other calibres. Therefore today these calibres are rare and it was chosen by Peter Speake-Marin because it is the same type of movement he had restored during his time in London during the 1990’s while working with Georges Somlo.

The Valjoux 92 succeeded the popular Valjoux 23 family. It was similarly sized but used a different technology. It was an oscillating pinion design, distinct at a glance for having two rather than three chronograph engagement wheels visible at the back. The historical chronograph movement were used by companies like Patek Philippe, Rolex and TAG Heuer. The mechanical hand wound movement beats with 18.000 beats per hour and features a power reserve of approximately 40 hours.

The London Chronograph is housed in a 42 mm titanium case with a three dimensional white dial. On the dial, the Arabic numbers alternate with Roman numerals to bring a vintage touch. The red 12 has classical connotations and associations with early pocket and wrist watches made in England.
The centre seconds chronograph is married in color to the 30 minute recorder hand located at 3 o’clock on the dial. The two subsidiary dials for the 30 minute recorder and the seconds dial are both seen to float on the dial and below them is found the Speake-marin topping tool logo wheel fitted to the hour wheel turning with the hour hand. The Central Speake-Marin signature Foundation style hands in heat blued steel bring the final touch to this special edition.

The London Chronograph is equipped with a black rubber strap and water resistant up to 3 atm. It will only be available the coming summer like mentioned before and it’s priced at £14.400.

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Perpetual Watch PR-01

A Perpetual Watch é uma empresa chinesa que tem uma abordagem de certa forma original à relojoaria: assume que é chinesa e que os seus movimentos são chineses, mas também que isso não tem necessariamente de ser algo negativo. Ou seja, há empresas chinesas e... há empresas chinesas.
Pessoalmente, é uma abordagem com a qual concordo, ao contrário do que acontece com marcas de origem anónima como a Parnis, de que já falei anteriormente.
As referências à Perpetual Watch nos fóruns de entusiastas de relógios parecem confirmar que estes produtos são de facto interessantes e que valem o que custam.
A empresa tem o seu próprio website e vende diretamente ao consumidor final. Entre as várias gamas, há relógios com mecanismo de turbilhão, mas neste caso vou falar do PR-01, um relógio relativamente simples, com complicação de data através de ponteiro às 2 horas e indicador de reserva de marcha às 10 horas.
O serviço da Perpetual vai ao ponto de permitir ao cliente escolher a combinação que prefere entre mostrador (preto ou branco) e bracelete (cor e material). E as braceletes incluem um mecanismo de fecho tipo borboleta que aparenta ser de boa qualidade.
Estes PR-01, que custam apenas 140 dólares (cerca de €120), têm caixa em aço, vidro de safira e vidro mineral atrás para exposição do movimento automático. Bom, bonito e barato? Sem dúvida.

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Bulova Mechanical Collection Ref. 96A118

Um relógio é algo de muito pessoal e o que é lindo de morrer para uns pode ser uma completa aberração para outros. Os relógios de que aqui falo são aqueles de que eu gosto. E nada mais natural que quem me lê tenha um gosto muito diferente do meu. De qualquer maneira, tento cobrir uma diversidade razoável de modelos e estilos – muitos dos modelos aqui apresentados são relógios de que gosto mas que não consideraria jamais comprar. Outros, não só gosto como estão na minha wish list.
Este Bulova é um interessante dress watch que tem uma característica que normalmente me faz torcer o nariz: o mostrador com numeração romana. Contudo, admito que neste caso os números romanos foram uma escolha feliz.
A Bulova é uma empresa de origem norte-americana (ainda hoje a sua sede é em Nova Iorque) com uma história cuja origem remonta ao século XIX e que conta com algumas interessantes contribuições para a tecnologia relojoeira. Desde 2008 que a empresa foi adquirida pelo gigante japonês Citizen, grupo ao qual agora a marca pertence, embora mantenha uma linha de produtos com identidade própria.
Este dress watch é um bom exemplo da boa relação preço-qualidade da marca. Trata-se de um relógio mecânico automático – presumivelmente com um movimento Citizen Miyota, dada a ligação ao grupo japonês – com caixa e bracelete em aço e mostrador de 42mm. As suas características mais salientes incluem a janela para visualização do movimento às 7H00, e os sub-mostradores de segundos (às 4H30) e de 24 horas (às 9H00).
Mas o melhor é o preço: o preço “oficial” é de 499 dólares, mas é possível encontrá-lo online em lojas europeias por menos de €300, o que me parece um valor bem interessante para um relógio mecânico com este nível de execução, pese embora o facto de o mostrador ser protegido por vidro mineral normal e não de safira.
Este modelo existe em cinco variações diferentes: três com bracelete em aço e duas com braceletes em pele.

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Citizen HTM AW0038-53E

O formato de caixa entre os 42 e os 44mm está a tornar-se cada vez mais na referência dos relógios masculinos – um valor que até há poucos anos estava no extremo do que poderíamos encontrar, tornou-se hoje mainstream.
É certamente o caso deste simpático (e acessível) Citizen, com a referência AW0038-53E e que pertence à coleção HTM da marca japonesa, que utiliza um movimento de quartzo EcoDrive sem pilha (alimentado pela luz).
Esta é uma de três variantes do mesmo modelo, sendo a mais jovem e desportiva do grupo, com a sua caixa em aço com revestimento PVD negro e detalhes em laranja. A Citizen optou por um mostrador de aviação tipo B em que as marcações horárias são feitas através de índices mas os únicos numerais visíveis são da escala de minutos/segundos, o que é acentuado pelo destaque dado aos números 60 e 30 nas posições das 12h00 e 6h00, respetivamente.
A caixa tem 43mm de diâmetro e resistência à água até 100 metros – uma clara marcação taco-a-taco à Seiko e à sua gama Seiko 5 Sports, a que nem falta uma janela de dia/data às 3h00 para completar o conjunto. Claro que os Seiko 5 são relógios mecânicos automáticos e este utiliza um movimento, mas não podemos negar a fonte de inspiração!
Deixei o melhor para o fim. O preço. Uma busca pela Internet permite-nos identificar valores médios em torno dos 160 euros, o que me parece um valor bastante competitivo.

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Armida A1 steel 42mm 300m Diver NH35

As chamadas "micro-marcas" continuam a proliferar e é-me cada vez mais difícil acompanhar o ritmo! Recentemente aderi a um grupo no Facebook especializado nestes "micro brands" e descobri algumas peças muito interessantes – como este Armida automático.

Trata-se do modelo de mergulho A1, estanque a 300 metros, com o movimento automático Seiko NH35A. Uma das coisas que mais me atraiu neste modelo foi a sua simplicidade: tudo, do desenho da caixa, aos ponteiros e índices e terminando nas inscrições no mostrador, é sóbrio e de bom gosto – o que nem sempre acontece, infelizmente.

Além disso, a marca tomou algumas decisões interessantes na implementação do movimento, nomeadamente ao rodar a coroa para a posição das 4h00, de forma a tornar o relógio mais confortável de usar e, sobretudo, ao prescindir da janela de data – muito embora o movimento possua essa complicação de raiz.

O resultado, numa caixa de 42mm com proporções muito boas, é excelente. E se adicionarmos o facto de possuir vidro de safira e poder ser vendido com bracelete de borracha e de aço (na foto) por um valor muito razoável de 419 dólares, temos aqui uma proposta ganhadora.

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Essential Watches – A Guide to Buying Fine Timepieces

Sure, a watch tells the time but it also speaks volumes about your personality. Show up for a job interview wearing a stainless steel Rolex Datejust and you’ll see some raised eyebrows. While just having a watch in the first place is a feat for some, for watch aficionados, a good timepiece is a work of art, an heirloom piece. For guys with an eye for quality metal, their collection is second only to what’s stored in their garage. The ladies, an elegant watch is part of their jewelry collection.

Sound too extravagant for your budget? http://www.swisswatchexpo.com/ doesn’t think cost should keep you from owning at least one high-end timepiece. Specializing in discounting only the top Swiss and German fine watches from world-class manufacturers like Rolex, Patek Phillipe, Lange and Sohne, Panerai, Chopard, Frank Muller and Audemars Piguet. Even if you can’t find the exact watch you want on http://www.swisswatchexpo.com/ (although highly unlikely), just let them know what you are looking for and they’ll get if for you.

Granted, there are a lot of watch peddlers out there but how many of them can you trust? Look for a solid reputation – just check their positive transactions posted on http://www.swisswatchexpo.com/ (yes, you really can get everything on http://www.swisswatchexpo.com/). Buying a watch is an investment, so you don’t want to rely on a grainy stock photo. Instead, look for detailed photographs of every watch line so that you know exactly what you’re getting when that little box arrives in the mail.

So how does a watch dealer get their authentic top-of-the-line watches at below market prices? According to http://www.swisswatchexpo.com/, it’s all about their relationships with the “major” players and whom they know. This is the stuff that allows a simple http://www.swisswatchexpo.com/ store to grow into one of the leading watch sellers on the Internet.

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Die dunklere Seite der Rose.

Einladend, aber unheimlich.

Rolex, die einzige Uhrenmarke, von der jeder weiß, dass sie seit mehr als einem Jahrhundert zeitlose Uhren herstellt, und nur die Worte Submariner, President, Daytona und dergleichen beschwören unmittelbare Konnotationen von Größe herauf. Mit dem reichen Erbe und dem beständigen Ruf dieser Modelle war Rolex in den letzten Jahrzehnten nicht dafür bekannt, völlig neue Modelle einzuführen, aber das änderte sich 1992 mit der Einführung des Yachtmasters. Im Vergleich zu den mehr geschichtsträchtigen Linien im Rolex-Repertoire ist es ein relativ kindliches Kind und wurde als luxuriösere Alternative zum bereits sehr beliebten Submariner konzipiert. Während der Sub als praktisches Boots- und Tauchwerkzeug geliebt wird, dreht sich der Yachtmaster um Ästhetik und Stil, und dieses Modell hat sie in Pik!


Die Bande ist alle hier!

Mit dem geliebten 18k Everose Goldgehäuse von Rolex werden Sie die Blicke von der Küste erhaschen, lange bevor Sie zum Dock fahren. Ein interessantes Merkmal dieser Uhr ist die mattschwarze Cerachrom-Lünette, die perfekt zum Zifferblatt passt und einer bereits interessanten Uhr eine besondere Note verleiht, ohne die armen Zuschauer an Ihrem großen Auftritt zu blenden. Das schwarze Lederarmband wird dieses schöne Teil sicher an Ihrem Handgelenk halten, selbst wenn das Wasser rauh ist und ohne ein Gramm Stil zu opfern. Es ist schwer zu glauben, dass eine Marke, die so raffiniert und gefeiert ist wie Rolex, aus dem linken Bereich kommen und Sie überraschen kann, aber bei Gott haben sie es. Wenn Sie also ein alter Hund mit neuen Tricks sind oder eine junge Katze, die eine Armbanduhr vom Typ "nicht wie Ihr Vater Rolex" haben will, dann suchen Sie nicht weiter, denn hier ist sie!

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Top 5 Watchmaking Complications

The word “complications” in watchmaking is a fairly common one. Watch brands often refer to timepieces as having simple or complex complications. Generally every function of a watch that is in addition to its timekeeping role is an added complexity. Essentially a complex watch offers added information and data. The more extra functions, information and data packed into a timepiece, the more complicated it is. Here's our list of the Top 5 watchmaking complications...

Perpetual Calendar watches have many disks and layers. (Photo from Patek Philippe.)

1 – Perpetual Calendar. A watch in which the calendar indications, such as the date, weekday and month, are indicated and have been built in such a way as to account for short months and leap years and automatically adjusts the date accordingly.

Tourbillon escapements constantly rotate, offering alluring appeal.

2- Tourbillon. While some do not consider the tourbillon escapement a true watchmaking complication, it is, indeed, a horological accomplishment. First invented in the early 1800s by Abraham-Louis Bregeut, a tourbillon escapement eliminates the errors in timekeeping rates that usually occur due to the effects of gravity on the watch when it is on the wrist. Today’s tourbillon makers turn to multiple tourbillon escapements, smaller tourbillon escapements and larger ones, as well, as they via to break records in this arena.

An inner ring is inserted for a Minute Repeater, as the gong strikes this, it resounds. (Photo from Piaget.)

3- Minute Repeater. A watch that chimes the time by striking the hours, quarter hours and minutes and is activated by a slide or pushpiece. Hammers strike one or several gongs. The sister complexities of this watch are sonnerie and other striking or musical watches.

Rattrapante movements are very complex.

4- Split-Second Chronograph or Rattrapante. A split seconds chronograph, rattrapante, or double chrono offers the capacity to record and display two separate events and allows the two time intervals to be compared. Essentially, the watch has two seconds hands. With the first push of a button, both hands start together; the push on the split-second pusher stops one hand in place, while the other separates from it and continues to time the other event and one can read the intermediate time while the other chronograph continues to progress. A second press will make the stopped hand catch up with the moving hand.

From side view, ultra-thin watches can look as slim as a half dollar. (Photo from Jaeger-LeCoultre.)

5- Ultra-Thins. The ultra-slim or flat timepiece is a true work of art. Making a large movement is easy, but when one has to build hundreds of mechanical parts and get them to work inside spaces that are so thin that, when cased, the profile of the watch is less than 6mm mere in height, it is an amazing work of art and craftsmanship. Hence, it falls into the watchmaking world’s complicated feat category, and the race is on the mechanical watchmaking world to continue to break records for ultra-thin watches.

Then there are a series of other complications that also can come into play, such as chronographs (watches that measure time intervals with a start and stop button and don’t interfere with time indication), power reserve indicators (that provide the wearer with information as the remaining energy in the mainspring), moonphase indicators (that show the phases of the moon), world timers (that tell time in multiple zones), and more.

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Fall Watch Season Is Right Around the Corner

It's hard to believe that the last “official” vestiges of summer are disappearing into the working and school world again now that September has arrived. Time is that always-fleeting, illusive thing we can’t seem to get a hold on no matter how hard we try. That may well be why we embrace the concept of tracking it beautifully with watches that complement our lifestyles.

Every year the high-profile unveiling of new timepieces takes place in Switzerland at SIHH in Geneva in January and BaselWorld in Basel in March. At these shows, the top watch brands introduce the watches that will steer the course of the wrist for at least a few years.



The fall, however, also brings with it a nice spate of watch fairs and special events that also showcase the latest luxury timepieces. Among the key fairs is the upcoming Watches & Wonders Show in Hong Kong at the end of this month. The show, with just fewer than 20 luxury brands exhibiting, is open to the public on certain days, and key companies use this timeframe to unveil some complex beauties.



In October, the watch world celebrates the finest in its field in the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie awards that take place in Geneva, wherein top watch brands in a host of categories are awarded for their hard work and effort. Categories include Mechanical Exception, Jewelry, Ladies High-Mech, Tourbillons, Calendars, Striking Watches and more.

In early November, the watch industry shows its heart with many top brands participating in the collectors’ paradise auction known as Only Watch. For this auction, participating watch brands – some of the finest in the world — are asked to build and donate a piece unique for the auction, with all benefits going to Research on Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. Only Watch is a biennial charity auction that has been taking place since 2005. This year, for the first time, the event will happen in Geneva.

Later in November, it’s on to the Salon QP watch exhibit in London, which generally wraps up year’s busy schedule before the holidays. We look forward to bringing you ongoing news and coverage of all of these events as the fall season unfurls.

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Don't Drop Your Watch Without Reading This First

We've all heard the term "shock resistant" in the watchmaking world. However, what does this term really mean and is your timepiece resistant enough to absorb shocks caused by falling, dropping, exerting too much acceleration at once, and more?



It is a viable question in today's fast-paced world where active lifestyles put us on the edge of powerful sports and lifestyle engagements all the time. As such, today's top watchmakers are going to new heights to make their watches sturdier so they can withstand the rigors of daily life.

Essentially, a truly shock-resistant watch is one whose movement is not damaged when dropped or subjected to constant impactful motions (i.e., worn on the wrist during a tennis match). Generally, watch brands achieve this via different types of suspension systems for the balance wheel. Such systems include pivots that can hold a balance wheel in place, while offering enough "give" to go with the situation or even more complex multi-level suspension processes.



The most commonly used system is the Incablock — invented in the early 1930s and perfected time and again. Incablock is a trade name for a spring-loaded mounting system for the jewel bearings that support the mechanical watch’s balance wheel. Some brands today combine the Incablock system with synthetic jewels, silicon hairsprings, non-ferrous escape wheels, outer housing containers, ceramic ball bearings and other high-tech materials and trains that make the watch movement ever more resistant to blunt force trauma.



The International Organization of Standardization (ISO) has also issued certain standards of shock resistance. In the watch world, to be called shock resistant, a watch must meet certain tests and controls and adhere to the standards of shock resistance issued by the ISO, including keeping accuracy while undergoing shock of +/- 60 seconds/day. Additionally, most watch brands using shock resistant movements also use top-quality case and crystal materials to avoid breakage.

Is your watch shock resistant? If you have purchased a certified chronometer, yes. Other watches that are shock resistant mostly include dive watches, pilot watches and certain high-tech sport watches. Stop in any time to discuss shock resistance with us and to find the watch that is right for your active lifestyle.

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Super Lovers 60er Klassiker - Blaues Rechteck

Heute ist der 20. Post über eine meiner Lieblingslinien japanischer Modewatches.

Diese Uhr ist eine andere von der Super Lovers Marke aus Tokio, Japan. Sie sind nicht ursprünglich ein Uhrenhersteller, sondern eine Mode-Marke, die sich auf Klamotten, niedliche und punkige Kleidung und Accessoires spezialisiert hat. Sie gibt es seit 1988 und haben in dieser Zeit eine große Auswahl an verschiedenen Uhren unter den Labels Super Lovers, Lovers House oder Lovers Rock verkauft. Nach dem, was ich bis jetzt gesehen habe, verwenden die Uhren viele verschiedene Hersteller für die Gehäuse und Module, also würde ich denken, dass jeder direkt in Auftrag gegeben wurde, anstatt Kollaborationsstücke zu sein.

Dieses Modell stammt aus einer bestimmten Reihe von Uhren unter dem Namen Super Lovers namens 60's Classics. Die Uhr ist nicht aus den 60er Jahren, sondern ist eine analoge Quarzuhr mit einem 60er-Feeling zum Design.

Die Uhr hat einen rechteckigen Gehäusedesign aus silberfarbenem Metall, der recht tief ist und bis zu den Bandanschlüssen abgewinkelt ist. Das Glas ist auch dick mit einem rechteckigen Schnitt und schrägen Kanten, die eine Form wie ein Goldbarren ergeben.

Das Gesicht ist ein glänzendes blaues Metallic-Design, mit dem Super Lovers-Logo (ein Herz in einem Superman geformten Surround) in der Mitte geprägt. Über dem Logo befindet sich der Name Super Lovers, darunter der 60er Classics Quartz.

Es gibt keine anderen Markierungen zu sagen, wenn diese Uhr aus ist, also denke ich, es ist ein 90er oder Anfang 2000er Modell (aber in Wirklichkeit habe ich keine Ahnung ...).



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Junge London BOY-87-W

Ich habe viele der Boy London Uhren in diesem Blog gebloggt (das ist der 18.), aber dieser hat einen anderen Stil als die Sets, die ich bisher vorgestellt habe.

Dieses Modell ist der BOY-87-W und es ist eine Quarz-Analoguhr mit einem 3-Hand-Zifferblatt-Design und wird von einem japanischen Uhrwerk angetrieben. Es gibt auch ein kleines Datumsfenster in der 3-Uhr-Position. Es hat ein dickeres Metallgehäuse als normal und hat eine rotierende Metallblende um das Zifferblatt. Es gibt keine Boy London Logos auf der Vorderseite, aber es gibt ovale Paneele über und unter dem Zifferblatt mit dem Namen Boy London (ähnlich wie ein Armband aus einem der anderen Modelle). Das Gesicht ist schwarz mit großen weißen Punkten für die Stunden (mit kleinen Minuten Zahlen knapp über jedem Punkt), und der Name Boy London ist auf dem Zifferblatt gedruckt.

Das Armband unterscheidet sich von den anderen Metalluhren dieser Marke. Es hat ein doppeltes Spreizdesign, mit einem winzigen Boy London-Logo auf dem Clip, und die Farben des Metalls passen genau zum Gehäuse.

Die Rückseite der Uhr ist eines der Standarddesigns mit dem Boy Eagle Totem Logo und dem Modellnamen. Um die Außenseite der Rückplatte hat es das Zitat "Dieses ist ein ursprüngliches Jungen-London-Produkt. Jedes Produkt, das nicht dieses Zeichen trägt, ist nicht echt", das ich sicher auch kopiert worden wäre, wenn dieses nicht echt war. ..

Die meisten der Metall Boy London Uhren scheinen aus den 90er Jahren zu stammen, aber da dies ein anderes Design ist, fühlt es sich an, als ob es neuer ist, also denke ich 2000er Jahre.



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Deadman Quartz GV5766 Rot und Blau

Dies ist mein zweiter Deadman Post in einer Reihe, da diese in der Nähe und bereit zu tragen war.
Das Modell wird von den langjährigen Followern meines Blogs leicht als das rotierende Disc Design GV5766 erkannt. Was ich bei den Deadman-Uhren herausgefunden hatte, war, dass es mehr verschiedene Designs gab als Duplikate jedes Designs, aber dieses Modell ist die Ausnahme. Bis jetzt scheint dies das beliebteste der Modelle zu sein, da viele verschiedene Variationen der Farbe und Textur des Armbands veröffentlicht wurden.

Diese besondere Version hat ein silbernes Gehäuse und ein schwarzes Gesicht mit Goldschrift. Die Riemenabschnitte sind aus glattem Leder und diesmal für die obere Hälfte rot und für die untere Hälfte blau.



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